Decisions, Decisions

[dona_violante]

I had to go 'web only' on Atlantia's new A&S list because I just didn't have time to keep up with all the traffic. Now I have freed up some bandwidth for more important things. Like posting to LJ. Ha, ha.

But seriously, I'm trying to cut back on things which don't help me get ready for Pennsic. 

Like sleep, eating, and my job. ;-)

*sigh*

The linen for my supportive kirtle should get here tomorrow from fabrics-store.com, so I'm trying to make some final design decisions. The second mock up came out fabulously (although I do wonder whether it ought to be tighter still).

I have started drafting a sleeve, and have decided conclusively that I have the arms of an alien. Following Mathilde's directions , the gusset to make up the difference between my bicep measurement and the armscye needs to be the size of oh, say, Rhode Island. 

In the interest of preserving fabric (oh yeah, and sanity) I looked at my inspiration picture again. Hmmm. Looks like I have a decision to make. See, girlfriend's sleeves are rolled up. And there is no sign of an underdress sleeve. So far I've come up with five possible interpretations: feel free to chime in if you think of another.
 
1) She's not wearing an underdress. (Possible, yet I've already committed to making an underdress since I don't want the bias dress taking the strain of supporting my (admittedly modest) endowment.) 

2) She is wearing an underdress but it has elbow-length sleeves or 3) no sleeves. 

4) The cuff actually should have been white, as the underdress sleeve and dress sleeve were rolled up together, and the painter mistakenly went through all that extra work to paint the cuff consistent with the rest of the dress. Or, 5) the sleeves on the underdress are identical to the sleeves of the bias dress.

I am not a 14th century clothing specialist (although I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once). My inclination is towards a elbow-length sleeve, but I'd be interested in hearing other people's thoughts as well.

Comments

[chargirlgenius.livejournal.com]

It could be that the armhole on your dress is pretty big. Does it come right up into your armpit?

You're also slender, which actually makes things more difficult for sleeves. You could consider making the sleeve a bit looser in the bicep to help accomodate for it. Also, if your sleeve is looser, you can get away with a *bit* steeper curve.

Hm. Interesting pic. I would suggest making the plaid dress short sleeved, since it'll eventually be over another dress, but wear it at least over a long sleeved smock. I think the artist was just trying to convey that she was working, without worrying about smock sleeves and such. Who knows, maybe she was wearing a short sleeved smock? Either way, I think if she wasn't actively working, she'd have her arms covered.

[danabren.livejournal.com]

Which lady specifically? (I'm sure you said but don't remember now).

Plaid particolored lady looks like there is a white-leyer cuff line on her right wrist but not her left.

None of the other women, except for the Holy Mother seem to have an underlayer of any type.

My vote is that it's a short-sleeved or sleeveless chemise, of which there are images available (dunno about short sleeves in Spain tho'!) for England and France.

[danabren.livejournal.com]

LAYER, argh...

[salviati.livejournal.com]

I vote for 2 or 3. Probably 3, actually - I know I've seen evidence of sleeveless shifts (the bath house babes from somewhere - I can't remember where, the snot in my head isn't leaving enough room for random access memory...) but can't think of any of short sleeves or elbow-length. OTOH, 4 is also plausible, as is 6) She should be wearing an underdress/shift with the sleeve rolled down, and the painter just (for whatever reason) didn't paint it in. I'd probably either go sleeveless or full length sleeve, if it were me.

[isabelladangelo.livejournal.com]

Sorry! I'm not sure how my comment ended up where it did...hmmm....maybe the Zombies are still attacking?

Anyways, If you turn to page 177 in Kohler's History of Costume (cause I know you have or can just borrow it), there is a 14th c chemise that is nothing more than spagetti straps. My guess is that is what she is wearing underneath. The chemise has a very wide neckline which explains why you can't see it underneath the gown.